Repair of minor scratches in the body structure
If the scratch is superficial and does not penetrate the body metal, the repair is very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area with a special compound to remove peeling paint. Rinse the damaged area with clean water.
Apply car paint to the scratch. Continue applying thin layers of paint until the level of paint in the scratch is equal to the level of paint around. Let the new paint dry for at least two weeks, then buff the surface. After that, wax the scratched area.
If the scratch is deep and the metal of the body has begun to rust, then use another repair method. Use a pocket knife to remove all rust to the base of the scratch, then use a primer to prevent future rust. Using a nylon brush, cover the scratched area with filler. If necessary, dilute the filler to obtain a paste that fills narrow scratches well. Before the filler hardens, wipe the surface of the scratch with a thinner filler. This will ensure that the surface being repaired is just below the paint level around. The scratch can now be painted as described earlier in this Section.
Repair of dents in the body structure
When repairing dents, the first step is to level the surface as close to the original shape as possible. It makes no sense to try to restore the original shape, since the metal in the damaged area will be deformed and cannot be brought to its original contours. It is better to make the level of the dent 3 mm below the metal around. In cases where the dent is very shallow, this tie should be done at all. If the reverse side of the dent is accessible, it can be straightened out easily with a straightening hammer. When doing this job, put a block of wood on the opposite side of the dent to absorb the hammer blows and prevent the metal from warping.
If the dent is in the double layer body section or is otherwise inaccessible, then use the following method. Drill some small holes in the metal inside the damaged area. Drive self-tapping screws into the holes to get a good grip in the metal. The dent can now be straightened out with pliers, by pulling on the protruding screw heads.
The next stage of the repair is to remove the paint from the damaged area and 2.5 cm around. This is easy to do with a metal brush or an emery wheel clamped in an electric drill. This work can also be done efficiently by hand with sandpaper. To finish preparing for the primer, scratch the surface of the metal with a screwdriver or file. Or drill small holes in the area to be treated. This will ensure good adhesion to the filler material. To complete the repair, see Chapter Priming and painting.
Repair of rusted holes or holes
Remove all paint from the surface to be treated and 2.5 cm around, using a wire brush or an emery wheel clamped in an electric drill. This operation can also be performed efficiently by hand with sandpaper. After removing the paint, determine the severity of the damage and decide whether to replace the entire part or repair the damaged area. New body panels are not very expensive and it is often faster to install a new part than to repair large damage.
Remove all parts from the damaged area, except those that will help restore the original shape of the damaged body (type of headlight frames, etc.) Cut out damaged or rusted metal.
Scrub the damaged area with a wire brush to remove powdered rust. If the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat it with anti-corrosion paint.
Patch holes before priming. This can be done by riveting or attaching a sheet of metal with screws, or by filling the holes with metal mesh.
Once the hole is sealed, it can be primed and painted. (See the next subchapter on priming and painting).
Priming and painting
Before reading this subchapter, see the subchapters on dents, deep scratches, corroded holes, and puncture repair.
There are many types of body primers. A wide nylon brush or flexible plastic will be needed to apply and level the primer. Mix a small amount of primer and thickener in a clean container (use thickener sparingly). Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging. Using a brush, apply the primer to the prepared surface. To achieve the desired contour and smooth the surface, brush across the surface of the primer each time. As soon as you reach contours close to the original, stop applying the paste. Continue to apply thin layers of paste every 20 minutes until the filler level is close to the level of the metal around.
Once the filler has set, the excess can be removed with a file or sandpaper. Use coarser grain paper first and finish with finer grain paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around the flat bar to keep the surface completely smooth. While sanding the surface, the fine sandpaper should be periodically rinsed in water in order to obtain a very smooth surface.
When making such repairs, take care of the safety of the surface of the body. Rinse the repair area with clean water to remove all sandpaper dust.
Spray the primer onto the surface to be treated. This will allow you to see the defects in the surface of the filler. Repair defects with a new primer or filler and sand the surface again with sandpaper. Repeat this procedure until you are sure the surface is perfect. Rinse the area with clean water and let it dry.
Now you can start painting. It is sprayed in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free area. These conditions can be created in a paint shop, but if you have to work outdoors, choose a dry, windless day. If you are working indoors, dampen the floor with water to keep out dust. Trim parts such as chrome strips, door handles, etc. must be protected or removed. To do this, use duct tape and several layers of newspaper.
Shake the bottle well before spraying. Then apply a test coat and practice the spray painting method. Paint the repaired area. It should be applied on a well-dried thick layer of primer.
Start spraying from the center of the area to be repaired and then, in a circular motion, work your way up to the edges. Paint about five cm beyond the edge of the repair. Remove all protective coatings 10-15 minutes after spraying is complete. Let the new paint dry for at least two weeks, then use a polishing compound to blend the outline of the new paint with the old. Finally apply the wax finish.
Plastic parts
With the increase in the number of plastic body parts used by car manufacturers (such as bumpers, spoilers and, in some cases, main body panels), the question arose of repairing their more serious damage. The basic repair technique involves making grooves along the line of a crack in a plastic part. The damaged part is then welded together using a hot air injector to heat and melt the plastic filler rod into the groove. Then the excess plastic is removed and the repaired area is leveled. It is important that the correct filler rod is used, as body parts can be made from many different types of plastic. such as polycarbonate, ABS, polypropylene.
Less serious damage (friction, slight cracks, etc) can be restored with epoxy resin filler. It usually cures within 20-30 minutes and is ready to be stripped and painted.
If you are restoring a part completely with epoxy filler, then there is a problem to find the right paint to finish the repair, which will be compatible with the type of plastic used. At one time, the use of an all-purpose paint was not possible due to the complex range of plastics encountered in body repair. Standard paints will not stain plastic or rubber at all. But now it is possible to purchase plastic body parts that come with a primer and paint for surface treatment. First, the damaged part is repaired and dried (up to 30 minutes). A primer is then applied and dried for an hour before the special paint is applied. As a result, the color is correctly selected and the paint has the properties of flexible plastic or rubber.
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